racerender intake manifold pressure object

#Racerender intake manifold pressure object how to
#Racerender intake manifold pressure object free

Once I installed everything, the system was pretty easy to bleed and after a quick test drive everything feels great. I did have to do a couple Autozone/Lowe's runs to get some loctite, a few extra washers (needed more/a larger shim to get the rotor centered on one side), and some cleaning supplies. After that everything went together pretty smoothly. The rear hoses took about as long as the whole front kit since I had to remove the calipers to get the brake line off. It ended up taking me an evening and a morning to get everything changed. I painted the section of the rotor that wouldn't be touched by the pads with some VHT high temp paint so I wouldn't get the rust ring. I ordered a set of TCE rear SS lines to complete the kit and Todd had them here very fast. The rotors still measured 28mm thick (same as new) and both sets of pads measured about 16mm (16.5mm new). The parts arrived in only a couple days and the pads and rotors were practically brand new (2000 miles and 3 x 15 minute track sessions). I've been watching the for sale section for quite awhile looking for a good deal on a used Wilwood FNSL6 BBK setup and the perfect one came up last week from I jumped on it since it was exactly what I had been planning (TCE FNSL6 kit, Centric High Carbon Volvo S80 Rotors, and even a set of Poly B track pads to go along with the BP10 street pads) all for about 2/3 of buying all the parts new. The car is much stiffer though and the potholes around here aren't much fun, but it's a dream on the track.

#Racerender intake manifold pressure object free

I ended up removing the weighted damper part to free up some space and haven't really noticed any ill effects. Also, at just over -2 the 'rim protector' part of the Eagle F1's was rubbing on part of the front end link mounting bracket/damper. I would have liked some more camber up front but that was the limit of the camber plates at least on one side, so to go further I would have to have the subframe shifted. I setup the car about 3/4-1' lower all around and had my alignment dialed in for -2 front camber and -2.5 rear with slight toe out up front and slight toe in out back. Also, I had gotten a used JBR rear sway bar with the billet brackets prior to the buying the coilovers. To compliment the new shocks/struts, I picked up a set of Massive Speed rear camber arms and toe links as well as front and rear Steeda adjustable end links. Getting the OEM front struts off was the biggest headache. The kit was in great shape and overall pretty easy to install. There was a good deal on a lightly used set of Ground Control coilovers with camber plates on the forum so I jumped on it. I did end up upgrading the suspension in early April a couple weeks before my first track event at Gingerman (too many good deals on here to pass up ). See my DIY Radiator Guide thread for details.

#Racerender intake manifold pressure object how to

I hope to streamline this process a bit in the future, but the steps above will get the job done too.Thanks for the reply, my next question was going to be how to do it in race render.Well the cooling mods seem to have been working well. I usually do the following to create a boost gauges in RaceRender:ġ) Double-click on the data file in the 'Input Files' listĢ) Go down to 'Calculated Field 1', set the name to Boost, Input Field to 'Intake Manifold Pressure', choose the 'Subtract' operation, and then enter your normal baro reading in the box to the right (eg around 14.5 PSI at sea level, 12.0 in Denver, etc.)Ĥ) Click the 'Add' button under the 'Display Objects' section, then choose 'Gauge', set the 'Field' selection at the top to 'Boost', click on a gauge style that looks good, and then use the properties box to customize it as you like.

Presently, there is not a boost video overlay within the app, so you would need to use RaceRender to show it on a video.